Tomato 'Kremser Perle' Organic

Tomato 'Kremser Perle' is the most famous Austrian heirloom tomato originating from the world-renowned agricultural lands of the Wachau region, which frame the banks of the Danube River.
Recognised for being robust and weather-tolerant, this stable semi-determinate variety bears abundant medium-sized, round, red fruits that have good taste. One of the earliest tomato varieties, you can start harvesting around 16 weeks after sowing.

'Kremser Perle' plants grow up to 100cm (39in) tall and are eminently suitable for cultivation in cooler climes, in pots or containers, under glass or outdoors.
Very robust and disease resistant, they are insensitive to brown blight and late blight. The compact plants do not have to be pinched and mature relatively early at about 100 days, they reliably produce beautiful firm, aromatic fruits that are dark red, slightly flat-round and weigh around 50 to 60 grams

Tomato 'Kremser Perle' has an interesting provenance, originating from the the Wachau region of Austria, a stretch of the Danube Valley between Melk and Krems. Considered one of Europe's most enchanting river valleys it is an area that is world-renowned for both wine and fruit growing,
The beauty of the agricultural lands of the Wachau region, which frame the banks of the Danube River, is undeniable. From the river’s banks, vineyards reach into the hills, while towns and villages dot the landscape. But for visitors, the attraction goes beyond superficial looks. This region has been worked for thousands of years and shows adaptations made necessary by climate and market. The Wachau Cultural Landscape was elevated to UNESCO World Heritage status in its entirety in 2000.

• Organic Seed.
  This seed has been organically produced. The seed has been harvested from plants that have themselves been grown to recognised organic standards, without the use of chemicals. No treatments have been used, either before or after harvest and the seed is supplied in its natural state. It has been is certified and is labelled with the Organic symbol.

Timing:
As they cannot tolerate any degree of frost the timing for sowing and planting outside is key to successfully growing tomatoes. Where the seeds are sown under cover or indoors, aim to sow the seeds so that they reach the stage to be transplanted outside three weeks after the last frost date. Tomato plants take roughly seven weeks from sowing to reach the transplanting stage. For example, if your last frost date is early May, the seeds should be planted in early April to allow transplanting at the end of May.

Position:
Tomatoes require a full sun position. Two or three weeks before planting, dig the soil over and incorporate as much organic matter as possible. The best soil used for containers is half potting compost and half a soil-based type loam: this gives some weight to the soil.

Sowing:
Plant about 3mm (1/8in) deep, in small pots using seed starting compost. Water lightly and keep consistently moist until germination occurs. Tomato seeds usually germinate within 5 to 10 days when kept in the optimum temperature range of 21 to 27°C (70 to 80°F). As soon as they emerge, place them in a location that receives a lot of light and a cooler temperature (60 to 70°F); a south-facing window should work.

Transplanting:
When the plants develop their first true leaves, and before they become root bound, they should be transplanted into larger into 20cm (4in) pots.
Young plants are very tender and susceptible to frost damage, as well as sunburn. I protect my young plants by placing a large plastic milk jug, with the bottom removed, to form a miniature greenhouse.
Depending on the components of your compost, you may need to begin fertilising. If you do fertilise, do it very, very sparingly with a weak dilution.
Transplant into their final positions when they are about 15cm (6in) high. Two to three weeks prior to this, the plants should be hardened off.

Planting:
Just before transplanting the tomato plants to their final position drive a strong stake into the ground 5cm (2in) from the planting position. The stake should be at least 30cm (1ft) deep in the ground and 1.2m (4ft) above ground level - the further into the ground the better the support. As the plant grows, tie in the main stem to the support stake - check previous ties to ensure that they do not cut into the stem as the plant grows.
Dig a hole 45cm (18in) apart in the bed to the same depth as the pot and water if conditions are at all dry. Ease the plant out of the pot, keeping the root ball as undisturbed as far as possible. Place it in the hole and fill around the plant with soil. The soil should be a little higher than it was in the pot. Loosely tie the plant's stem to the support stake using soft garden twine –allow some slack for future growth.

Cultivation:
A constant supply of moisture is essential, dry periods significantly increase the risk of the fruit splitting. Feed with a liquid tomato fertiliser (high in potash) starting when the first fruits start to form, and every two or three weeks up to the end of August. In September, feed with a general fertiliser (higher in nitrogen) in order to help the plant support it's foliage.
Over watering may help to produce larger fruit, but flavour may be reduced. Additionally, splitting and cracking can result from uneven and excessive watering.

Pruning:
When the first fruits begin to form, pinch out the side shoots between the main stem. Also remove lower leaves which show any signs of yellowing to avoid infection.

Harvesting:
Pick as soon as the fruits are ripe, this also encourages the production of more fruit. Cherry tomatoes are usually tender-firm and thin-skinned, the skins of the fruit will split if watering regimes are erratic, or if the fruits are not harvesting promptly and left too long on the vine. At the end of the season, harvest all the fruit as soon as frost threatens and ripen on a window sill.
Once harvested, store at room temperature, as anything below 10°C (50°F) destroys the enzyme that gives tomatoes their flavour.

Origin:
The tomato originates from South America's western coast. They are native to the Andes region of Chile, Colombia, Bolivia, and Peru, however they are believed to have been domesticated in Mexico.
It was in the early 1500s that returning Spanish colonists first introduced tomatoes to Europe. However, in North America, tomatoes were not widely embraced until the early 1800s. Despite being grown and used by pockets of colonial Americans, they were thought to be toxic as they are in the Solanaceae family, which includes deadly nightshades and other poisonous plants. This was disproved publicly in 1820 when Colonel Robert Gibbon Johnson ate a tomato on the courthouse steps of Salem, New Jersey.
The first traces of its use as a food date back to the first half of the 18th century. Originally believed to be poisonous when introduced into Europe and was used solely as an ornamental plant during the 16th and 17th centuries. Around the same time that the myth of tomatoes being poisonous was dispelled, people in France started to believe that the tomato was an aphrodisiac, and began calling it 'pomme d'amour', or 'love apple.'
There is no evidence that points to a specific time and place of discovery for the first yellow cherry tomato, but it is known that it was a natural occurring mutation found on a red cherry tomato plant. A recessive gene contained in the tomato’s genetic makeup.
This gene causes flavonoids in the skin and increases the level of yellow carotenoids, carotene and beta-carotene, the pigment which results in the yellow complexion. This single mutation is responsible for the evolution of Yellow cherry tomatoes and the many varieties on the market today.

Nomenclature:
Botanically, the tomato is a fruit, but in 1883 the U.S. Supreme Court ruled that the tomato was legally a vegetable because of the way it was commonly used. Tomatoes are among the most common plants grown in home gardens.
The botanical classification of the tomato has had an interesting history, and debate over the scientific name continues today. The tomato was first placed in the genus Solanum, and identified as Solanum lycopersicum under the methodology of Carl Linnaeus, who developed the binomial system of naming plants and outlined it in his 1753 publication, 'Species Plantarum'. This designation was then changed to Lycopersicon esculentum, the term Lycopersicon deriving from the Greek word meaning 'wolf peach,' and esculentum simply meaning edible. However, current phylogenetic methods have shown the tomato to be situated firmly within the genus Solanum, and after years of preference for the name Lycopersicon esculentum, strong molecular DNA evidence is promoting the return to Linnaeus' original classification, Solanum lycopersicum.
Cherry tomatoes, in particular, are then more specifically called Lycopersicon esculentum var. cerasiforme.

Organic Growing:
The best way to grow tomatoes is to grow them chemical free and as organically as possible. Tomatoes require help to grow and this can often amount to an uphill struggle to keep them bug and disease free. However there are some clever little methods you can utilise to ensure a lush, organically grown crop of tomatoes.

One of the best and most universally employed methods in successful tomato growing is companion planting. Companion planting means carefully placing pest repellent plants in amongst your tomatoes so that unwanted bugs are kept away.
Two of the best companion plants for tomatoes are marigolds and basil. Both of these plants contain components, or a fragrance, that acts as a pest repellent. Bugs such as aphids, thrips, fruit fly and others are kept at bay and away from your tomato plants as they grow.

Another great herb is mint. If you plant tomatoes near a runner of mint it helps keep tomatoes healthy and even improves their flavour and growing conditions. To avoid tomato grub, plant dill and borage. These also improve overall health of tomatoes.
Remembering that potatoes, tomatoes and eggplants are all part of the Nightshade family, it is known that the leaves of these contain toxins which attract “friendly bugs,” such as ladybirds. Soak approximately two cups of tomato leaves in two cups of water the overnight, and then squeeze the water from the leaves. Strain this mixture through a fine sieve and add equal amounts of water then use as a spray. Spray above and under leaves of your tomato plants. This deters aphids and attracts bug-eating insects.

Diseases such as anthracnose, early blight and similar fungal problems are best controlled right from the word go. Follow these steps to avoid fungal problems:
1) Start with a good, clean friable soil, preferably one that has not had tomatoes planted more than once or twice in previous seasons.
2) Avoid over-composting as composts can harbour bacteria, which is harmful to tomato plants.
3) Mulch well around tomatoes to prevent excess moisture and “steaming.”
4) Water tomato plants at root level, avoiding wetting the leaves.
5) Do not tread over or disturb the root systems around tomato plants.

Another point to remember with growing tomatoes is to water regularly once tomatoes start to appear and grow. Irregular watering can initiate cracks in tomatoes. Too much water can cause them to swell faster and with the skin unable to cope, will cause cracking. Also allowing them to go without water and then watering hard to compensate for under-watering, will also result in the same problem.

Following these simple steps can help ensure you grow a crop of tomatoes you can be proud of – there really is no tomato like a home-grown tomato!